"To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow"

Unfortunately, I do not know who to give credit for this quote; it was sandblasted onto a rock at a local garden store. It is such a beautiful and accurate statement. There are few things in life more satisfying than planting seeds and watching them grow. The ebb and flow of a garden throughout the year(s) mirrors that of a human life.

When designing a landscape it is important to remember that it will not remain static. The landscape will begin to change from the moment it is created. Eventually, it will be replaced by something different – maybe, completely different. Some elements of the landscape, such as large shade trees and construction elements, have more longevity than others, and their tenure is measured in terms of human generations spanned. Annual flowers, perennials, and small shrubs on the other hand are relatively short-lived, and their tenure is usually measured in terms of months and years. For this reason, the selection, placement, installation, care, and maintenance of the more permanent components of the landscape are especially important. These components form the backbone of the landscape. Think of the shorter-lived plants as accessories to the more enduring components. It's fun and relatively easy to change the accessories. Don't be afraid to experiment with new accessories – this is what landscape gardening is all about.




Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Goshiki' - Goshiki False-Holly.

Osmanthus species look like hollies, hence their name. 'Goshiki' is a broadleaf evergreen with attractive foliage. It will eventually get 6'-10' high with a 10'-15' spread, but its growth rate is slow. It is hardy to zone 7. Its form when young is rounded, becoming upright-to-vase shaped with age. Its leaves are striking: new growth is pink-to-purple tinged; developing green flecking on gold background; mature leaves are green, gold, and cream; color bleaches out in full sun. The tiny white flowers are extremely fragrant, hidden amongst the leaves, blooming between early and late fall. The fruits are seldom borne under cultivation, and are not showy. 'Goshiki' prefers moist and well-drained acidic soil, but will grow in very dry soil; this plant tolerates drought. It's not bothered by many pests. This is a great plant for borders, screens and hedges. Since it is quite spiny, it can be a useful barrier plant. It does well in partial shade. It is an excellent plant for dry-shade conditions.




An Encyclopedia of Shade Perennials. W. George Schmid. 2002. Timber Press. 494 pages. ISBN 0-88192-549-7. Foreword by Allan M. Armitage.

Finally, we have a definitive book on shade perennials. This book is outstanding, both in its descriptive and pictorial content (500 color pictures). This companionable reference provides information on more than 7,000 species and 184 genera, from Acanthus to Woodwardia – all well suited to the shade garden. Along with its excellent plant descriptions, it also provides many valuable growing tips. It is an excellent resource; I constantly find plants I'm having difficulty identifying or finding information about in this book. The book is a must for your gardening library, especially if you have shady conditions.




Irrigating Turfgrass – a discussion

Since we have been experiencing one of the worst droughts ever recorded for our area, it is a good time to discuss turfgrass irrigation. A discussion of this topic should begin with the assumption that future water supplies will diminish as demand increases. It doesn't matter whether increased demand is from population, environmental, climatic, or some other pressure; good, available water will be a very precious and limited resource in the future. For this reason, we need to do everything possible to manage this resource wisely.

The intended purpose of a turf area should dictate the type of grass species used. For example, a football field, a golf green, and a residential lawn all have different uses and requirements, and some grasses are better than others at producing desired results. A coarse, fast growing, drought tolerant, clump grass might be good for utilitarian turf that gets a lot of wear and tear, such as a common area in a recreational park, but a poor choice for a moist, shady courtyard garden. Matching purpose with grass type is important in satisfying soil moisture requirements and avoiding either water deficient or wasteful situations. Proper ground preparation prior to seeding or sodding is also very important to future turfgrass success and maintenance. People frequently use irrigation to try to revive turf that was installed poorly, and this is a losing proposition.

The most critical time to water turf is during its infancy. Don't let new grass dry out; it does not yet have a big enough root system to reach deeper soil moisture. Frequent, shallow irrigating is necessary for young turf. However, as the turf's root system grows, less frequent and deeper watering is best; this more closely follows natural patterns.

Most mature grasses are genetically programmed to go dormant (brown) during periods of stress, especially moisture and temperature stress. This is a survival strategy; it is a good thing! Too many people associate dormancy with poor health – nothing could be further from the truth. Dormant does not mean dead. When the conditions that caused dormancy improve, the grass will wake up and resume normal growth. Preventing dormancy by irrigating causes the grass to become very susceptible to insect and disease problems, which are costly and difficult to prevent and cure. We must learn to accept that healthy turf goes dormant and that this is a good thing. This is an unusual case in the plant world where going green is not good.




Dealing with concrete and mortar slag on a job site

Cleanup is always a problem whenever concrete or mortar is used on a job site, especially when it is a finished job site. Whether the concrete is delivered or mixed on the job, all equipment must be cleaned thoroughly before the cement hardens. This requires water, and it can be messy. One way to avoid the mess is to build a temporary framework out of scrap 2"x8" or similar lumber. A good size for the frame is 5'x10'. The lumber is nailed together sitting on edge. The framework is laid on the ground over some type of fabric that has wicking capability; we use a fuzzy, geotextile fabric called Mirafi. The wood frame is lined with 6-mil black plastic, creating a pool. Leave enough plastic hanging over the sides of the box to fold back over the pool. Poke some small drain holes in the bottom of the plastic to let excess water escape slowly. The wicking fabric binds up most of the fine particles in the water. You now have a great place to clean out concrete trucks, pumpers, tools, mixers, etc. Once the slag dries it can be wrapped up in the plastic and hauled away. The framework can be dismantled and used again.


Wayside News is published twice annually and distributed free of charge. It covers topics on landscape design, plant identification, book/literature review, landscape maintenance, and construction. It is intended to be brief but informative, if not argumentative. We welcome any comments and suggestions from readers, particularly concerning topics for future issues. We can be contacted through our website www.waysidelandscape.com.

Andrew J. White
President